Showing posts with label Appalachia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Appalachia. Show all posts

Appalachian Adventures (Final Chapter): Tu-Endie-Wei, Zoar, and Beer along the Muskingum

Our visit to Point Pleasant, WV, showed us to our pleasing surprise that this little river town has a bit more to offer outside of the Mothman mythos. One was already written about in regard to the U.S. Navy Poster Museum; this final post on our trip talks about the history behind Tu-Endie-Wei State Park.

Ohio itself has plenty of history to go around; while our earlier visit to The Serpent Mound detailed this state's original inhabitants, our visit to the Zoar Historical Village detailed one of one of the more unique groups of European settlers to set up their home within this state's borders.

In between these two visits, we dropped into Marietta, the first permanent settlement northwest of the Ohio River, to check out where the locals drop by for some locally brewed beer and pub grub.

From the Wyandot word for "point between two waters", Tu-Endie-Wei
State Park in West Virginia turned out to be much more than a pretty view
Tu-Endie-Wei State Park:  The point of land that holds this state park would be a in-the-area destination if only for the pretty view, combining multiple river bridges as well as the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio Rivers. But the impossible to miss monument centered on this property gives the visitor the hint that there's something much more to this piece of land other than pretty views and nicely manicured greenery.

Although unintended, our visit to the park came on a rather momentous day: roughly 240 years prior, what some historians have dubbed the first battle of the American Revolution took place upon this Point Pleasant site on October 10, 1774. At that time, clashes with Indians were commonplace, and seen by American forces as possibly detrimental in a possible conflict with mother country Britain, especially if Britain were to ally with the natives.

After signing a peace treaty with Iroquois Nation and Delaware tribes, Governor of Virginia Lord Dunmore meant to quell rebellious Shawnee and Mingo tribe factions to the south, led by Chief Cornstalk, by teaming up with appointed commander of Virginia's militia, Andrew Lewis. Suffice it to say, the battle was brutal (300 deaths spread between both forces) but successful for the colonists, as it led to a treaty where Shawnee and Mingo forces would remain neutral in any American-British encounter.

Numerous monuments related to the signature battle which occurred
on park land, the Battle of Point Pleasant, are scattered around the park.
Also located at the park is Mansion House, the oldest hewn log house in the area (and originally run as a tavern) that has been preserved and turned into a museum run by the local chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. Open from May to October, it does not look like much from the outside and actually looks on the smallish side, but the visitor will find more artifacts, bits of local history and other items of interest stuffed within this building's multi-leveled interior than one might think.


On a side note, if you do get the chance to walk along the river on the Point Pleasant side, be sure floodwall murals (similar murals reside in other towns further down river such as Portsmouth, OH and Covington, KY), which provide a artistic rendition of life along the river as well as important historical events in the area, including those which took place at Tu-Endie-Wie.



Tu-Endie-Wie State Park
1 Main Street
Point Pleasant, WV 25550
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The Zoar Store, where most people's tour of this historic
Ohio village just north of Dover starts

Zoar Historic Village: Located just northeast of Dover and New Philadelphia, Ohio, the historic settlement of Zoar provides an incredibly detailed look at a unique group of settlers who made their communal way of living work for over over 80 years.

Formed by a group of 200 separatists escaping religious persecution in their home country of Germany, Zoar Village was founded in 1817 with a communal arrangement. In something of a Cliff Notes version of basic operations, Zoar society members were assigned tasks to keep the village functioning, and all goods produced were shared equally among all in the village. All needed goods and wares were produced among community members, and with the generally rough living conditions and the need to conserve limited resources, a philosophy or reusing goods and building things to last was commonplace among members of the village.

We had previously visited a similar town/state park in the Gold Country of California in the historic town of Columbia, and there are definitely some similarities to these two places. However, we found that Zoar had a more down-to-earth quality to it, and the exhibits that were opened (coming during off-peak tourist season and a Sunday meant that some exhibits were closed) gave us a more detailed look at what the hardship the original settlers must've felt versus the cleaned-up view of mining life that Columbia presented.

After checking in at the Zoar Store/Visitors Center (here you can purchase souvenirs as well pay admission for a wristband that will let you into all the open exhibits), we walked two blocks to the Town Hall, one of the last buildings built by the society and currently home for two museums. After a helpful video introduction to the Zoar society, we wandered through this two story building and saw a rather extensive collection of tools and personal artifacts gathered from the original Zoar settlers.


The well-preserved nature of many of these items is a tribute to the Separatists' mantra of taking care of their belongings and creating them to last. This building also holds items for the Ohio & Erie Canal Museum: Zoar and Bolivar were on the southern stretches of this transportation pathway from the Lake Erie region, proving especially vital for the first couple or three decades for Zoar settlers (the canal's importance declined starting in the 1850s when the railroad became the dominant mode of transport of goods and people throughout the country.)

Next, we ventured to the Number One house (residential houses were originally numbered to help make the distribution of goods an easier process) where society founder Joseph Bimeler and Zoar trustees once resided. Within this solidly built house (this can be visually seen quite well when touring the basement) visitors can get not only an idea about the functional quarters the settlers lived with, but also the laundry areas as well as the magazine, where goods were stored and available to distribution to all village residents. One also can further sample the great craftsmanship within various collective members, with perhaps the most striking being in the organ handcrafted by Peter Bimeler, great grandson of Joseph and the miller for Zoar during its later years of existence.


Other exhibits, original Zoar houses turned into private residences (while they are not open to the public, visitors are free to walk through the streets and view these 19th-century era homes) and businesses (including a tavern and a bed and breakfast) are scattered throughout the village. However, the undeniable centerpiece of the village remains the Zoar Garden. Anchored in the center by a large spruce tree (meant to symbolize everlasting life), the garden acted then as both a spiritual haven (the numerous paths emerging from the center are representative of paths to Heaven) and a source of sustenance to village members (the grounds then and still grow vegetables and fruits.)  On this sunlit day, we couldn't help wander through this area and feel at peace with life in general, free to ponder what the original settlers were thinking dozens of years ago as they did the same.

 

While the original Zoar collective officially disbanded in 1898, the pride in what those original members were able to accomplish in their nearly 70 years of existence remains strong today with their descendants. We felt fortunate to experience that while chatting with one of the village's current docents, who had set up shop inside Number One House to guide that day's visitors. We learned that she was descended from the Bimelers of Zoar, and her obvious excitement in being able to relate her family's history to visitors like us in the actual living quarters of her ancestors was palpable and heartwarming. This conversation, above all, may have been the most satisfying moment of our exploration of this unique bit of Ohio history.


Zoar Historical Village
198 Main St
Zoar, Ohio 44697
(330) 874-3011 or (800) 262-6195
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Marietta Brewing offers a solid brew and grub option
for this river town's resident in the heart of downtown
Marietta Brewing Company - The town of Marietta, sporting 14,000 people at the last Census count and holding the distinction of the first American settlement northwest of the Ohio River, can be a bit confusing for first-time travelers coming north on Ohio State Route 7. After having West Virginia on the other side of the river for pretty much the entire route, I found myself a bit confused having to cross a bridge to get into Marietta, as I thought that we must surely be going into Ohio's neighboring state. Later, I was able to figure out that we were actually crossing the Muskingum River, and that Marietta was firmly ensconced in Buckeye country.

The building in which Marietta Brewing Company (MBC) resides may, for those familiar with the Columbus brewery scene, remind them of the building where Barley's Brewing Company resides. Its downtown location, high ceilings and brick-lined interior are obvious points of reference; the large murals inside MBC are also reminiscent of the posters which line Barley's walls. This brewery, which is the second incarnation of the concept (the first iteration of the brewing company was in 1866 on a site a couple blocks from the current establishment), was like Barley's similarly founded in the 1990s, some five years after Barley's was established in 1992.


Food-wise, MBC treads similar pub grub ground as places like Barley's or Mad Anthony Brewing in Fort Wayne, with a slightly more limited selection but with a pizza option. Obviously, this is a first impression based on just one meal (for my spouse, the steak salad and for me, a veggie pizza) but I'd put the food level somewhere ahead of Mad Anthony's and just slightly behind places like Barley's or even Smokehouse Brewing in Columbus, but more or less in that same class of brewpub grub that's perfectly pleasing with a brew or two.


Marietta also hones its focus in terms of its own brews, rotating its own seasonal around a base of five year-round beers. While the selection may be smaller than most, the beers we had were all at least better-than-average.The standout brew for us was their Esther's Raspberry Wheat, which compares quite favorably to the Razz Wheat that Jackie O's in Athens, Ohio produces. Another solid brew was their Stanleyville Milk Stout, a smooth and creamy rendition with a pleasant maltiness and coffee notes. If MBC's own in-house brews don't appeal to you, a wide variety of mainly bottled craft brews from all parts of Ohio (on our visit, at least two choices from the Cincinnati, Cleveland and Columbus areas were available) from all parts of Ohio and outside the state are available for your drinking pleasure.

Marietta Brewing Company
167 Front St.
Marietta, OH 45750
(740) 373-2739
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Marietta Brewing Co. Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Appalachian Adventures (Pt.4): Hot Dogs, Coffee and Diners - Oh My!

In many ways, traveling through the more isolated regions of the country make finding some good eats a more satisfying experience when you do find them. While nothing we found on our trip fell into the "oh my you've gotta' drive 400 miles out of your normal trip to go here" category, what we did end up finding and visiting are assuredly worth visits if you're nearby.


Hillbilly Hot Dogs: As we found out, the Appalachian part of Ohio and West Virginia along the Ohio River is something of a hot dog haven. Athens, which we passed through briefly, had O'Betty's Red Hot! recommended to us by the folks at Columbus Brew Adventures (alas, that will have to wait for another visit), and there seemed to be many places along the route touting their wieners, brats and everything sausage-related.

But there was one place we targeted for our hot dog fix on this trip, mainly because it worked out perfectly for lunch as we toured both sides of the beautiful river landscape between Gallipolis, OH/Point Pleasant, WV and Chesapeake, OH/Huntington, WV, and was absolutely dripping in the kitsch we love to dive into quite a bit on our excursions.

Hillbilly Hot Dogs, opened up in 1999 by Sonny and Sharie Knight, is a place that both defies (lives up to?) expectations in two main ways. The first is what is essentially a glorified hot dog stand's worldwide notoriety: besides the features on numerous food-oriented shows and media publications, one can easily spot the handwritten messages of folks on just about every spot in the interior who have visited over the years from places afar.


The second aspect is its sheer over-the-top play on the hillbilly stereotype: junkyard-style decor, numerous word misspellings and chunks of back-country wisdom are seen everywhere.  I suppose it could be considered offensive to some, but the Knights take it to such a level that it cannot be taken for anything but a cheeky, semi-self-deprecating nod to that perception. Even the numerous locals that I saw (several on repeat visits with family and friends) all took it in stride, and they were far more inclined to talk up the menu of tasty eats. These particular hillbillies are a lot more sly than one might think.

The menu? The most obvious comparison for us is Columbus' Dirty Franks in terms of wide variety of wiener toppings and styles to please a whole host of visitors (for example, hot dog variations for the college folks from The Ohio State Unversity, University of Kentucky and Marshall University.) Standard pop beverages are on the menu, but you can order a beer with your grub as well (Hillbilly offers West Virginia craft beer selections from Mountain State and Country Boy Brewing if you're not into the macros.) After grabbing seats in the "luxury" school bus interior (those folks who are either claustrophobic and/or need a slightly cleaner atmosphere should opt for the upstairs porch area), we waited for our hot dogs, which despite the crowds came in fairly short order.


The previously-referenced (Marshall) Thundering Herd Hot Dog (with habanero sauce, nacho cheese, homemade chili sauce, jalapenos, onions and slaw) and my Strickly Business Dog (chili sauce, shredded cheese, mustard, onions, slaw...and yes, topped with Spam) were all satisfying in an artery-clogging kind of way. Topped off with a side of garlic ranch crinkle-cut fries (one serving is plenty for two normal-sized appetites), it made for a lunch that would keep us fueled well through dinner time in more northern parts of the Ohio River valley later on.

Hillbilly Hot Dogs
6951 Ohio River Rd
Lesage, WV 25537
(304) 762-2458
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Hillbilly Hot Dogs Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato




A Southern Company/Bittersweet Coffeehouse - take a chunk of a Franklinton-area warehouse and spiffy it up, throw in a coffee place and a fashion-oriented boutique from the Short North, and toss in a food-truck-sized weekend brunch menu for good measure. Drop this mixture into a West Virginia college town (Huntington, home of Marshall University), and you get yourself the combo business that is a Southern Company and Bittersweet Coffeehouse.

A Southern Company, a business that focuses on home decor and fashion, is the older of the two co-located businesses owned by Rita Pike-Evans at this warehouse near the Marshall University campus. While we weren't exactly seeking to improve our home decor being in the middle of vacation, there were plenty of nicer looking items at what seemed to be fairly reasonable prices. The space also holds a dining area, where the weekend brunch associated with the coffeehouse (more on this below) is hosted.


The newer addition to the tandem, Bittersweet Coffeehouse (opened in December 2014) showed that more sophisticated methods of brewing coffee, found quite readily in places like San Francisco and Columbus, are still percolating out to more remote parts of this country. As out-of-towners, our barista was more than happy and excited to explain what their coffee shop does different from any in the area in focusing on the pour over method of brewing coffee, as well as freshly grinding beans before preparation (a couple folks there, after realizing we were from the Columbus area, admitted to being fans of what the folks at One Line Coffee were doing.)


Bittersweet offers pour-over coffee as well as all the basic espresso preparations using beans sourced from Lamplighter Roasters out of Richmond, VA. Seeking something that was on the cold side, we both went with their Iced Lightning, a preparation not unlike Cafe Brioso's subtly sweet iced preparations like their Maple and Honey Vanilla Lattes that really hit the spot for both of us. Smoothies and juices are also available for the non-coffee drinkers.

In a neat twist for this former (and renewing) vinyl junkie,and similar to Columbus-area places like Rambling House and Fox in the Snow, this coffeehouse offers music via record player; while some records did seem to be evident, a note on the machine asks customers to bring in their own vinyl to be played.)  Also, the brunch menu, which seems to be on par in size with what Explorers Club offers at Zauber Brewing, can be ordered through coffeehouse personnel. Menu items rotate on a fairly regular basis: on this day, our options included a Breakfast Burrito (featuring house-made chorizo and smoked paprika sour cream, with a side of hashbrowns) and a Sweet Potato Waffle Sandwich (with apples, smoked Gruyere cheese, and a side salad.)

A Southern Company/Bittersweet Coffee
2001 7th Ave
Huntington, WV 25703
(304) 522-6056
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Mindy's Dover Station Diner - this was a case of previously-unknown-eatery coming to the rescue in the form of this Dover, Ohio downtown diner. Our preferred destinations ended up being closed on Sunday (Bread Head Bistro, also in Dover, and our backup, Rod's Donut Shop in Uhrichsville.) A third possible breakfast destination in New Philadelphia turned out to have a pasteleria on site instead. This is not generally not a bad thing at all, but in this case all this store had left on the shelves were the picked-over and, sadly, stale remnants from Saturday's offerings.

Downtown Dover was not exactly bustling as we were driving through looking for an opportunity to sate our hunger pangs, when a hint of activity led us to our salvation this morning.


True to its designation, Mindy's formula is not terribly uncommon, offering a 1950s-themed atmosphere along with diner-styled favorites. In a small-town type touch, rotating daily lunch and Sunday specials are offered to the visitor.

In terms of a Columbus perspective, the food is similar in quality and price (e.g. inexpensive) to what you would find in places like the Beechwold Diner and McCarthy's Wildflower Cafe, both on Indianola Avenue.  My spouse ordered "Dave's Breakfast", a good version of the classic biscuits and sausage gravy, and I appreciated that a place like this had the build-it-yourself Omelets had jalapenos (and ones with actual kick to them) as an option. The side of thinly-sliced Home Fries we shared were a little bit limpy but otherwise seasoned well.  Our service was friendly and our orders came out without any inordinate delay.


Mindy's also sports some interesting eye candy within its walls. In the back of the restaurant, a broadcasting booth can be found: the diner is home to a local radio station's "Cruisin Classic Oldies Music Show", hosted every Saturday by local radio personality Jim Kelly. In addition, vintage photos and furniture can be seen scattered throughout the interior, including a neat icebox sporting a logo from New Philadelphia-based Goshen Dairy. If we had noticed the sign on top of the icebox in time, we might have dived into one of the myriad of pie options, including Peach-Pineapple, Peanut Butter, and the highly intriguing (to me at least) Grape. Maybe next time...

Mindy's Dover Station Diner
221 W 3rd St
Dover, OH 44622
(330) 364-6800
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Appalachian Adventures (Pt. 1): All About The Serpentine Fire

This year's house purchase put a bit of a damper over our usual typically epic summer travels; cash that would've went for that journey was instead put toward some needed house maintenance. We even shelved our traditional wedding anniversary excursion, though we did make up for that with an excellent dining experience at Delaware's Veritas Tavern.  So by the time this month rolled around, the itch to get out and explore had hit us fully and we decided to take on relatively short-distance (our last trip saw us road tripping all the way to Colorado) but still eagerly anticipated sojourn through the mostly unexplored (for us) Appalachian region of Ohio and West Virginia.

We seemingly can't travel to lands to the south without stopping by
a favorite of ours: German Village's Kolache Republic
We started with what has become our traditional jumping off point for journeys southward: the tasty pastries at one of our longtime favorites (German Village's Kolache Republic). Of course, the kolaches proved to be as appetizing as ever; they even gave us a chocolate kolache on the house as we packed our Cafe Brioso coffees for the road trip ahead.

Since making time was not really an issue on this excursion, we traveled with the intent of taking as many back roads as possible. Thus, after a few miles on I-71, we hopped onto US 62 for a slow leisurely journey toward southern portions of the state. As it turned out, the lunch hour more or less coincided with our arrival into the quaint town of Hillsboro, the county seat of Highland County. We figured this would be a perfect time to grab some eats as well as discover what this town of roughly 6,600 people had to offer its visitors.


Birthplace of famed cartoonist Milton Caniff (Terry and the Pirates and Steve Canyon), Hillsboro offered up a relatively simple but fairly elegant Federal-styled county courthouse, an assortment of various monuments, and a small collection of antique shops (including one housed in what is touted as "Ohio's Oldest Pharmacy") to keep us entertained. A first of two tips by a local shopkeeper led us on an unexpected side trip to the old Times Gazette building in the south of downtown, where a gentleman specializing in estate sales had his collection of recent finds for viewing and purchasing had his building open for visitors. Numerous intriguing items (many from the state of Kentucky) caught our eyes, including a beautiful oak box containing both family and media-printed recipes. Alas, the oak box and its trove of possible culinary treasures was a bit too much for our pocketbooks, but we wouldn't mind dropping by this store again (they are open to the public the first non-holiday weekend of each month) if we pass through the area again.


Hillsboro will probably never be known for haute cuisine, but the shopkeeper's second tip satisfied our lunch cravings quite nicely with a more down to earth option. 24 Exchange Deli, Pizza and Sweet Shoppe, part of a unique combo of consignment shop and eatery, offers the visitor a plethora of movie and TV related wall posters (a general sci-fi theme was evident, as well as the works of the peerless Don Knotts), Amish pastries (including some monstrously-sized donuts and long johns) and a deli and pizza menu of the usual suspects. Our sandwiches were perfectly tasty, with plenty of kraut and thick-sliced corned beef on my Reuben and a satisfying Chicken Salad for my spouse.


Our featured destination this afternoon was The Serpent Mound, lying in the northern reaches of Ohio's Adams County and touted to be the world's largest serpent-shaped effigy in the world. We started at the museum, where we got a taste of the mound's purpose, the conflicting debate about the mound's origins (attributed at varying times to the Adena, Hopewell and Fort Ancient Native American cultures), as well as other historical artifacts and information about the indigenous cultures who resided in these parts of Ohio. The short video documentary in the main display area proved to be quite helpful in spelling this out and is worth a view if you ever visit.


Another feature touched on at the museum became quite evident as we walked out and surveyed the ancient structure itself: its head, tail and even the peak of its curves are lined up perfectly with numerous astronomical events such as the summer solstice. At ground level, wooden signs scattered around the pathway which circumnavigates the perimeter of the mound allowed us to match up sections of the structure with specific events.

An elevated metal viewing platform (not recommended for acrophobic individuals) gave us a much better perspective of the mound's elegant curves and overall structure from above. There were few visitors at the site on this off-season day of early autumn, leaving us by our lonesome at this heightened vista, with only the sounds of nature to serenade us as we peered down at this serpentine construct and pondered hows and whys that went into its being.


We encountered other scattered Adena-attributed effigy mounds on site; while they were nowhere near as picturesque as their serpentine cousin, it reinforced in our minds how important this area of Ohio's was to past indigenous cultures. Also, a Buckeye Trail sign reminded us that one need not travel out-of-state to a mountain range to take on a hiking challenge through picturesque countrysides.

Kolache Republic
730 S. High Street (German Village/Brewery District)
Columbus, OH 43206
(614) 928-3151
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24 Exchange Deli, Pizza and Sweet Shoppe
142 West Main Street
Hillsboro, OH 45133

(937) 402-4282
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Serpent Mound State Memorial
Park Hours: Open Daily Year Round, 9 AM - dusk
Museum Hours: Variable (please consult the Ohio History Connection website for more details)
3850 State Route 73
Peebles, OH 45660
(800) 752-2757
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