Showing posts with label Lessner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lessner. Show all posts

Riding Into The Sunset: Surly Girl Saloon

The Surly Girl Saloon is riding off into the sunset after it set up
shop ten years ago in what once was an equally surly Short North
For the first couple years after moving to a new locale, pretty much everything for the typical person is bright, shiny and new. Even though the normal course of change is happening around you in terms of places of business opening and closing, you rarely have the attachment needed to feel the loss of that place compared to those who have lived in the area longer.

I started realizing in the last year or two that I've been here long enough to more acutely feel those losses. They are all fairly sad affairs, but they range from mild disappointment (while I got to experience German Village's longstanding Bierberg Bakery's unique European-style cookies and pastries only once, I still feel happy that I did get to sample their wares.) Others are in the more begrudging category - my completed but unpublished review of Mya's Fried Chicken remains in my inventory ready for a quick addendum in the perhaps vain hope that they'll emerge phoenix-like to return to Columbus' food truck scene.

In the case of Short North based Surly Girl Saloon, my spouse and I feel sad, similar to a good friend who is leaving the area for good, and knowing that you will probably never ever meet again.

I had a longer time than most to develop a relationship with this eatery, a longtime component of Elizabeth Lessner's Columbus Food League of restaurants. Opened in 2005 in what was then an equally surly part of the Short North (things have calmed down considerably since then), the restaurant has continued to receive consistent patronage even up to its surprising but perhaps really unsurprising announcement (based on the local media reports) to shut its operations at the end of this month.

My visits to the Surly Girl started during the long-distance dating phase with my spouse; these regular visits continued after my move out here, our marriage, and beyond. We have been here with friends or family in tow or just the two of us for Sunday brunch. Along with Northstar, Surly Girl has been an eatery that we considered almost always an option, especially when it came to breakfast or brunch.

Surly Girl's funky and seemingly slapdash cowgirl and pirate interior decor in some ways reflected the collection of denizens who would seek a meal within its walls. I've seen the straight-laced, goths, nerdy-types, endurance athletes, the fashion-centric, college students, seeming hipsters and any more people within its walls, and often all at the same time. We'd joked often to ourselves that we were too much of the first category to look like we fit in here, but neither of us ever truly felt out of place at the Surly Girl on our visits.

From the menu to the walls and beyond, Surly Girl Saloon's interior is
marked with a kitschy, almost slapdash mix of pirate and cowgirl media.
A general Southwest theme is found throughout Surly's base menu, with items like Frito Pie, Pulled Pork and Black Bean Huevos Surlitos, Posole Stew and a Bandito Burrito blending in with other various sandwiches, salads and sides. A leftover from their initial startup days, personal pizzas also provide an option to hungry diners. Of course, you can't call yourself a saloon and not have adult beverages, and Surly Girl has plenty of liquor-based options as well as a decent-sized selection of draft beer, including several Ohio-based craft brewers such as Barley's, Hoof Hearted and Great Lakes.

Of course, when we heard the news of Surly Girl's imminent closing Monday afternoon, we knew we would have to pay one of our go-to restaurants a final visit, and decided to go that night to pay our last respects. If this night (a typically slow night in the restaurant world) is any indication, Surly Girl will be closing with plenty of fanfare, as a crowd slowly built up and the line to get in had spilled out to the sidewalk by the time we left.

It seemed only appropriate to grab a beer on this last meal in  and were quite happy with our Fat Head's Starlight Helles Lager and Seventh Son Lost Sparrow Black IPA. We decided we would go the pizza route, simply because it had been quite awhile since we had ordered one of their personal pizzas. In the past, we had pretty much surfed their menu and gotten a wide swath of food items. While nothing we've ever had would be considered gourmet or earth-shattering, Surly Girl's items were consistently tasty and the portions were always filling.

Whether it was the sandwiches, quesadillas, specials (as the breakfast
calzone) or the wraps, Surly Girl was a reliably tasty option for us.
In the various local media reports that were released announcing the eatery's closing, the three original "surly girls" (Lessner, Carmen Owens and Marcy Mays) stated that the combination of new interests and projects as well as the feeling that Surly Girl had finished the job it was meant to do. As Owens mentioned on web-based media source Columbus Underground, "It just feels like it’s up to another generation of businesses and residents to keep the ball rolling here.”

While we personally wish the saloon had a few more years left to go, we can definitely understand the sentiment. We truly wish everyone there the very best, and may the last week for the Surly Girl be as sweet as this Red Velvet Cupcake, a restaurant tradition which is at the same time the very first and, alas, the very last time we have this traditional dessert here.


The Surly Girl will be officially closing its doors this weekend on Sunday, April 26th.

Surly Girl Saloon
1126 N. High St (Short North)
Columbus, OH 43201
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Do the Dog: Dirty Frank's West

Long before the coffee shop came into its own as a neighborhood hangout, the local hot dog and sausage joint has and still acts in that capacity for many communities. Back in my childhood, that role was taken up by Sac's in the city of Vallejo. Another worthwhile option of the many in the Bay Area is the venerable combo of Rosamunde Sausage and Toronado Bar in the Haight-Ashbury of San Francisco. Folks can grab one of Rosamunde's tasty items and take it next door to pair with one of Toronado's excellent draft offerings.

Dirty Frank's, a member of Elizabeth Lessner's Columbus Food League (CFL) restaurant group, has been providing their versions of this American staple in the downtown Columbus area since 2009. They recently staked out a second location in the Westgate section of the hard-luck Hilltop neighborhood, and it seemed to be the perfect place for an uncomplicated but tasty late lunch on a day where I was criss-crossing through the metro.

The bar space, reflecting its 1940's-era roots, invites you to ease on up and take a seat
The exterior of Dirty Frank's West gives absolutely no clue to the colorful, kitschy interior blending artwork of mostly 80s and 90s sports and music icons (done by Lessner's brother Thom) on the walls of a bar originally built in the 1940's. Unlike its downtown elder sibling, there is a lot more space within; the space in and of itself seems to be ideal for hanging out with family or friends and settling in for an hour or two of chowing and chatting, with local music (as proudly proclaimed on the menus, Dirty Frank's ONLY plays local music) providing background rhythm.

Cold cuts? No! Just some of artist Thom Lessner's works on the walls of Dirty Frank's West
Hot dogs by nature are infinitely customizable, and Dirty Frank's doesn't skimp on the options. The basic menu offers several wiener options (including veggie) cooked up steamed, ripped (I.e. fried) or charred (butterflied and grilled) with poppy seed bun or a carbo-friendly lettuce leaf.

One can customize your own toppings or choose from a multitude of colorfully-named combos, including the "Puff the Magic Popper" with jalapeños, cheddar cream cheese and bacon bits, and the neighborhood-related "Mariann's Westgate Dog", which sports cheddar cheese over a combo of bar cheese, pretzel bites and brown mustard. All these items are priced quite reasonably from $3 to $3.50. Premium dogs with more exotic ingredients (e.g. The Hot Bollywood adds mango chutney) and/or bacon will cost you a little extra, but are still pocketbook friendly at $4 to $6.50. I went for one of the Seoul Dog ($4) in this category: the Korean Kim Chee paired up with a standard dog, bracketed with tater tots (any place with tots gets an extra check mark in my book), made for a satisfying combo.

Soothing my Seoul: the Seoul Dog with Tots, plus just a hint of your dog options
Along with tots, Dirty Frank's has standard (regular hand-cut fries, mac & cheese, sriracha slaw) and not so standard (Boston baked beans and fried leeks) sides. A focused set of adult beverages is available along with your traditional pop and related liquid refreshments, as well as dessert options from a select group of local sweet treat purveyors such as Johnson's Real Ice Cream and Food For Good Thought, for example.

Like all CFL restaurants, Dirty Frank's West has supported their surrounding community with their "Community Partner Days"; at this location, many have been centered around support of nearby John Burroughs Elementary School.

From all indications, it appears the surrounding neighborhood has embraced Dirty Frank's arrival. Whether the restaurant can be that anchor that sparks an overall turnaround in the area is still to be seen, but the fact that CFL has given the area a chance is notable in and of itself. At the very least, it allows all residents of the metro area two places to drop by Dirty Frank's and do the dog (with tots, of course.)

Dirty Frank's West
2836 W Broad St (Westgate)
Columbus, OH 43204
(614) 824-4673
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